The Lou Messugo Blog - life in the south of France from a British/Australian TCK's perspective, bringing you French culture, travel on the Côte d'Azur and beyond, expat issues and a little bit of je ne sais quoi all mixed up with a hefty dose of photography.

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Summer market scene

Posted by on in Food & Drink


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Sunday Photo - colourful market

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Cours Saleya Nice flower market

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Market Day in Provence

Posted by on in Provence-Côte d'Azur

I've always loved going to markets wherever I've been in the world and find it's a great way to get under the skin of a place.  Whether it's a genuine farmers' market selling locally produced food or a tourist-trap night market selling tat, there's always something interesting going on.  I remember going to Christmas markets in Prague in the early 1980s, but these weren't the Christmas Markets of today, with chalet stalls selling mulled wine, cookies and tasteful decorations.  These were functional affairs, markets at Christmas time rather than actual Christmas Markets, where you went to buy your live carp for Christmas Eve dinner, hauled out of an enormous tank of thrashing fish.  Urgh how I hated those fish!  I remember street markets in Sofia a decade later in the early 1990s where sellers would hawk a handful of onions on a trestle table, or a pile of radishes, hopefully trying to make a few Lev in times of absurdly rife inflation.  Just thinking of Paddington and Glebe markets, favourite hangouts during my student years in Sydney, brings back great memories of bargain hunting for unusual clothing.  I could go on and on (oh the markets in Vietnam...) but I digress, I set out to write about my local market, now!

      Valbonne market 03

      Valbonne market 05

France is justly famous for its markets, they really are still a part of every day life and always have been. They are not recently invented fashionable "farmers' markets" selling superfoods in designer eco packaging but genuine places where ordinary folk get their daily food.  Not everything is locally produced by any means, much comes from the wholesale markets on the edge of big cities, having been shipped in from around the world. You can usually tell these stalls as the fruit or veg is uniformly perfect and polished and the prices may be a bit cheaper than on the local stalls.  But mixed in with these generic sellers are plenty of local producers selling their wares direct, offering the best in quality and the lowest carbon footprint.  And that's what makes markets in France so interesting.  Regional variations in cuisine are so great that a market in Normandy will focus on entirely different produce than one in Provence, or one in Alsace.  Don't go to a market in the south expecting a selection of Camemberts, nor hope to find a range of olive oils in Lorraine!

      Valbonne market 04

      Valbonne market 06

In my area there's at least one street market in a nearby town every day of the week, and in places like Antibes, Cannes and Nice they are daily fixtures.  Roquefort les Pins market is on a Wednesday. It's small and functional, nothing to write home blog about.  My favourite local has to be Valbonne, every Friday morning.  Not only does it take place in an absurdly pretty medieval village, typically Provençal, with pollarded plane trees, shuttered windows, narrow cobbled alleys and a colourful central square, but it's so full of beautiful stuff!  The stalls ramble throughout the village, not just in one place but really, all over. Ambling around you can find everything from shoes, scarves and children's clothing to hand-painted ceramics, olive-wood bowls, kitchen ware, Provençal fabrics, artists' paintings, lavender cosmetics/soaps and lovely flowers.  And this is even before I've started on the food.  There's a wonderful selection of olives, tapenades, saucissons, goat's cheeses, olive oils, honeys and spices and several fruit and veg stands.  You can find fresh pasta, chicken roasting on a spit and the most delicious bread at a tiny stand by a hole-in-the-wall, straight out of the oven. The smell is heavenly. There is surprisingly little junk, with only one stall selling iPhone covers and other such tat made in China.  Just out of the main central part of the village, in front of the church, there is a section devoted to very local farmers/small holders.  Now, Valbonne is not exactly a cheap place, and the market prices can often reflect this, but there's at least one genuinely good value stall I head for every time.  The reason they sell at such a good price is that they only sell whatever fruit really is in season that day. Take a look at what was in season the last time I went: strawberries and asparagus, perfect early summer fare.

      marché valbonne fraises asperges

      Valbonne market 08

Valbonne market can get very crowded and in high season is absolutely packed.  My advice is to get there early - it starts around 7 am - and enjoy the best produce without the crowds.  Take your time to chat to the sellers, and even if your French is limited, a friendly "bonjour", "merci" and "au revoir" will always be appreciated and will almost certainly get you better service and possibly better produce too.  (See more on this here).  You can always ask to sample a bit of what you're interested in, or ask for advice.  Did you know that it's normal to ask for a certain product, such as a cheese/melon/avocado, to be ripe for a certain day? (For example, you want a fresh goats' cheese for a dinner you're having in 3 days' time, so tell the seller and s/he will pick you out the perfect one for that day).  Even if you're just looking and photographing, still make eye contact and smile - it makes a huge difference!  By the time everyone else arrives as the morning wears on you'll be ready to sit down and watch the world go by over a coffee in the Place des Arcades. You'll still be right in the thick of it, but at one of the coveted tables on the terrace rather than squabbling and pushing with the masses.

      marché Valbonne 02

      marché Valbonne 03

All photos were taken in late March.  Come back again in summer for a different selection of fruit, vegetables and herbs.  Do you like going to markets?  Do you have a favourite one?  I'd love to hear from you.

      marché Valbonne 01

      Valbonne market 02

      marché valbonne 04

      marché valbonne 06

      Marché Valbonne 05

      olives valbonne

      valbonne place des arcades

      asparagus asperges

      Valbonne market 01

      valbonne market 10

      Valbonne market 09

                     Valbonne market 07 

                     valbonne market 12  

 Do you like markets?  Do you have a favourite?


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Think of the French Riviera - even the name is romantic - and you think Love, with a capital L (and a French accent).  It's the seaside playground of the country of amour, how can it not be romantic? So in the name of lurrve I thought I'd put together a little list of some of the things to do and places to go to enjoy romance here in this gorgeous part of France.

Explore ancient hill villages


Whether you prefer to wander the tiny twisting alleys of a deserted hill village or browse the art galleries of one of the more populated places, the hill villages of the Alpes-Maritimes are made for romance.  Clinging perilously to cliff tops and fortified to keep attackers at bay, these medieval villages are labyrinths of narrow lanes perfect for exploring and getting lost in.  Just when you feel completely disorientated in the dark alleys, catching glimpses into tiny courtyards through low doors you stumble across a dazzling vista - a view over the Mediterranean sea or the southern Alps that takes your breath away.  These villages perchés are almost all car-free, silent and magnificently located.  My favourites?  Gourdon (for it's location/views), St Paul de Vence (for its galleries and beautiful renovations), Châteauneuf de Grasse (for its hidden-ness) and Saorge (for its authentic state and lack of any tourist trappings).  Read about the 13 best here.

Create your own perfume


What could be more romantic than creating a scent for you or that special person in your life, in the world capital of perfume, the city of Grasse?  Guided by experts, you can find your own personal fragrance, a scent that is exclusively yours that distinguishes you from the crowds.  You create your very own signature brand using smells and scents that remind you of fond memories, that seduce you and your lover.  This magical experience can be had at three of the most well-known perfumiers in Grasse, Fragonard, Galimard and Molinard.

Visit the flower market in Nice


Take a stroll through the famous flower market in Cours Saleya in the heart of old Nice.  Shaded by pretty stripy awnings the stalls explode around you in a riot of colour and pefume, for the flower market offers up fruit, vegetables, spices, olives, oils and soaps as well as cut flowers and plants. With the brightly painted buildings surrounding the square and the scent of hundreds of different blooms filling the air it really is an assault on the senses in the very best way.  The market is open every day except Monday and mornings are best as most stalls pack up at lunchtime to make way for restaurants.

Watch the sun go down over the Bay of Angels

   nice sunset

There are any number of romantic places to watch the sunset on the Côte d'Azur, but one of my favourites has to be from the Castle Hill in Nice, looking out over the sweeping Baie des Anges. From here you can see the whole of Nice, with the old town just below, the hills of Cimiez to the right, across to the airport and beyond.  Other good spots can be found on any of the beaches along the coast and of course from hill top lookouts such as Gourdon and St Paul de Vence.

Sip cocktails on a roof terrace restaurant 

 meridien roof terrace

So your budget doesn't run to staying in one of the luxury hotels on the seafront in Nice or Cannes (and why would you want to when you can stay at Lou Messugo!) but an apéritif on a roof top bar is a must for lovers.  Enjoy the uninterrupted view of the beach and horizon from high above, away from the crowds and city noise.

Laze the day away on a luxury beach bed 



...a double bed!  Luxuriate in your own private nest right on the beach, indulging in waiter service for snacks and drinks.  While this doesn't come cheap, it's an intimate, romantic and unusual way to spend the day on the beach.  Available for hire in Nice.  Other options include regular sunbeds with parasols and lunch included, or just the sun-lounger; on most beaches along the Côte d'Azur. Prices vary from beach to beach, with Cannes and Juan les Pins the dearest.  The season for sunbeds runs from approximately late April to early October, but throughout the year the beach is always a romantic place to stroll, play and spend time with your chéri(e).  FInd out more about private beaches here.



   beach food

   beach kiss

This list is just the tip of the iceberg, it's far far from definitive.  There are so many more romantic things to do on the Côte d'Azur, I could never write about them all.  But I'd love to hear from you. Have you been to the French Riviera with your love?  What tips would you give?  Where is the most romantic place you've been?

Want more romance?  Find out how romantic France celebrates Valentine's Day


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romantic things to do on the Côte dAzur French Riviera France

Photo credits:  thanks to The French Riviera Blog by Kevin Hin for the photo of the Galimard perfume and to Liz at Explore.Dream.Discover for the photos of the sunset over the Bay of Angels, the roof terrace, the beach bed, the prawn cocktail and the couple on the beach.  


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